Rollin' on the Rivers
There are many ways to see Europe, but if you see it from a river ship, you take it in slowly, relishing each delightful morsel of this cultural buffet instead of gulping it down as you might on speedier modes of transportation, like a car, train, or even an ocean cruise.
River cruising has some distinct advantages over ocean cruising, so it’s little wonder the industry is booming.
For one thing, an ever-changing panoramic view of fairytale castles, grand cathedrals and verdant landscapes bursting with ancient vineyards is always right outside your window, preferable to an endless expanse of waves.
Unlike ocean cruises, there are no “sea days,” so a new experience awaits onshore every day, sometimes in off-the-beaten-path villages that ocean-going vessels can’t access.
As the popularity of river cruising grows, the ships get more luxurious and the itineraries more compelling.
Here’s the big news right now.
Uniworld’s S.S. Bon Voyage Sails to Bordeaux-Ooh-la-la!
At Grand Cru estate in Saint-Emilion, a French wine town near Bordeaux, passengers from Uniworld’s newly renovated S.S. Bon Voyage discuss the deep-ruby, aromatic elixir in their glass.
They sniff. They swirl. They sip.
Some pick up notes of black currant and plum, while others insist spice and cedar are dominant. A few claim the wine is far superior to a vintage served at dinner last night, but other imbibers vehemently defend yesterday’s libation. What they all agree on is that this shore excursion is a highlight of a cruise through the venerable Bordeaux-Medoc region of southwest France, the country’s largest wine-growing territory famous for producing some of the finest vintages in the world.
The excursion includes a walking tour of the medieval village of Saint-Emilion, a UNESCO world heritage site surrounded by vineyards dating back to 5th-century Roman viticulture.
Among the many architectural marvels is a 12th century, subterranean church with only the bell tower above ground. Those who climb to the top are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the well-preserved town.
After a day of wine tasting ashore, guests return to the comfort of the 124-passenger S.S. Bon Voyage, formerly the River Royale, the newest of six “super ships” debuted by Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection that feature enhanced amenities and more dining options.
An eight-month, bow-to-stern makeover redesigned the four-deck vessel specifically for epicurean journeys through France’s wine region that includes three itineraries on the Garonne, Dordogne and Gironde Rivers.
Opulent public areas are formal but inviting, with Murano glass chandeliers, fine antiques and original artworks meant to immerse passengers in French culture the moment they board. Standard cabins with French-inspired vintage décor are only 140 square feet, but beautiful marble bathrooms complete with heated towel racks make up for the smaller space. The refurbishment added three new spacious suites for a total of four. Yes, there was only one before.
The piece-de-resistance is the Soleil Deck with an infinity-edge, heated plunge pool bordered by blue and white mosaic tiles.
New dining venues capture the essence of time-honored French gastronomy. Parisian La Brasserie serves traditional bistro fare, such as escargot, while La Salon Champagne provides an elegant space for aperitifs or nightcaps. Perhaps the most impressive of these additions is La Cave des Vins, a mirror-walled private dining room where passengers can savor an intimate, five-course dinner with wine pairing.
866-883-3684, www.uniworld.com
Viking Helgrim on the Douro River - A Portal to Port
Those inclined to explore a less famous but equally captivating European wine region can hop aboard the new Viking Helgrim, the smallest of the cruise line’s six new Longships, for a 10-day River of Gold tour that sails from Lisbon to Porto on Portugal’s scenic Douro River. The Douro Valley has been producing port, a sweet, fortified wine, for centuries, and there are many opportunities for tastings.
Among them is “Graham’s Port Dinner,” an introduction to one of Portugal’s most prestigious winemakers, W. and J. Graham. Graham’s 1890 Lodge is perched on a ridge in Vila Nova de Gaia, a wine hub across the Douro River from Porto. The bird’s-eye view of the historic city center may have you lingering outdoors for photos, but tear yourself away and step inside for an informative cellar tour that winds past more than 2,000 oak casks and countless dusty bottles, some dating back to the 19th century.
Afterwards, sample eight ports, including a complex, 40-year-old Tawny lauded by wine critics. Then, it’s off to the dining room for a meal of traditional Portuguese dishes.
National Tile Museum-Lisbon
The hand-painted blue and white ceramic tiles called “azulejos” that wallpaper much of the capital mesmerize anyone who has been in Lisbon for more than five minutes. They are a defining feature of the coastal city’s architecture, and as visitors traverse the labyrinth of steep, cobblestone streets, they will see striking examples everywhere: churches, metro stations, museums and private homes.
Some designs are simple geometric patterns, while others are intricate artworks that tell a story. A visit to the National Tile Museum, housed in a converted 16th-century monastery, chronicles the history of these glazed tiles that have been a hallmark of fine Iberian craftsmanship since the Moors introduced them about 500 years ago.
The masterpiece of the museum’s collection is a 75-foot-long mural created in 1738 from 1,300-tiles. The cityscape depicts Lisbon before the devastating earthquake of 1755 that wiped out much of the city and killed tens of thousands of residents.
877-705-7631, www.vikingrivercruises.com
AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna - Bigger is Better
Ocean cruisers who eschew river cruising because they fear the quarters will be too tight and the onboard amenities too limited may be pleasantly surprised by the AmaMagna, AmaWaterways’ new ship that made its inaugural voyage on the upper Danube River in May with a Romantic Danube itinerary designed to capture the allure of Old-World Europe.
It sails from Vilshofen, Germany, to Budapest, Hungary, with ports of call in the Austrian capital of Vienna, one of Europe’s most dazzling cities, the smaller Austrian towns of Linz and Weissenkirchen, and Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia.
At 72 feet wide, the AmaMagna is almost twice the width of traditional river cruise ships and the largest sailing on any European waterway. Guest capacity has increased only 20 percent, accommodating a maximum of 196 passengers, so you are never too close for comfort.
More than half of the 98 staterooms are spacious suites with well-appointed bathrooms, and eight connecting suites are ideal for multi-generational travel. Expansive balconies offer sweeping views of the abbeys and fortresses that line the Danube.
Just because this is no ocean-going, mega-ship with thousands of passengers doesn’t mean there’s a shortage of entertainment. Ok, there’s no ice-skating rink or a rock-climbing wall, but nightly performances by local musicians and dancers bring the traditions of each region to life.
The AmaMagna has really stepped up the plate when it comes to dining options. In addition to the main dining room and the Chef’s Table, passengers can dine at Al Fresco Restaurant, where veggie-based dishes take center stage, or Jimmy’s, a family-style restaurant and bar.
Burn off dessert in the spacious Wellness Studio that has state-of-the-art exercise equipment and offers group exercise classes.
Another way to stay active while cruising is to hop on a bicycle from the onboard fleet for a guided or self-guided tour of some of Europe’s most vibrant cities and charming villages.
The shore excursions are as impressive as the ship, hitting many cultural and historical landmarks.
Fans of the 1965 classic film “The Sound of Music” can walk down the aisle of the gilded Basilica St. Michael in Austria’s Mondsee region just like Maria did when she married Captain Von Trapp, and history buffs will marvel at the ruins of Dürnstein Castle where King Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned by Duke Leopold V of Austria while returning from the Third Crusade.
A city tour of Budapest, Hungary’s architecturally stunning grand dame, includes Heroes Square, which teems with frescoes and Old Master paintings, and the glorious Castle District, home to the gothic Matthias Church.
If golf is your game, take advantage of the new Concierge Golf Program, exclusive to the AmaMagna, and tee off at perfectly-manicured courses in Germany, Austria, Hungary, Slovakia, or the Czech Republic.
Tracey Teo is a writer living in Evansville, Indiana.
Planning Your Trip
To book your getaway and use your AAA Member benefits call 800-874-7317, visit your local AAA Travel Agent or AAA.com/Travel.
