The "Spirit" of Central Kentucky
A parade of thoroughbred horses thunders around the racecourse at Keeneland in Lexington, the heart of central Kentucky’s Bluegrass region, their velvety coats glistening in the autumn sun. One determined horse pulls ahead of the pack as though he has suddenly sprouted wings and may take flight like the mythical Pegasus.
This isn’t a race; it’s just an ordinary day of exercise and training, part of the new Backstretch Tour. Camera-toting horse lovers click away, trying to capture these equine athletes against the mosaic of vivid fall color.
Big dreams are pinned on these majestic creatures that are bred for speed. Maybe one will run for the roses someday in the Kentucky Derby, or better yet, be the next Justify, the 2018 Triple Crown winner.
Suddenly, a shrill siren pierces the bucolic scene. A horse has thrown his rider and bolted. Outriders (think of them as mounted racecourse police) fly into action to secure the runaway. That’s part of the thrill of the Backstretch Tour. Thoroughbreds are temperamental creatures, so anything can happen.
“Backstretch” refers to the stable area, and that’s where the group heads next. There, the horses are bathed and fed after their workout. Some throw their heads and exhale powerful blows through their nostrils, still wound up from their exercise routine, while others are malleable, at least for the moment, allowing grooms to brush their coats to glossy perfection.
Visitors lucky enough to be on the tour during the annual September yearling sale (September 9-22) are in for a treat. The action on the racecourse pales in comparison to what goes on at the world’s largest thoroughbred auction house.
The tension is palpable as a fierce bidding war ensues among those prepared to invest millions in potential racing legends. The auctioneer’s rapid-fire chant ricochets throughout the sales pavilion, “1 million. Give me 1 million. Give me one, give me one, give me two…”
Last year, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai, continually outbid the competition, spending nearly $20 million on 27 yearlings for Godolphin, his global horse racing empire.
Tour guide Clark Nyberg says no matter how deep your pockets, investing in a race horse is always a gamble. “The most expensive horse ever sold here was back in 1985. A horse named Seattle Dancer went for $13.1 million. He ended up being nothing as a race horse,” Nyberg said. “The flip side of that is in 2010 a yearling sold for $11,000. He was named I’ll Have Another. He won the Derby and the Preakness.”
Bourbon Bliss in Bardstown
OK, you’ve done the horse stuff, but while in central Kentucky, head over to Bardstown, a small, charming town 60 miles west, to partake in that other thing the state is famous for – the world’s finest bourbon.
Raise your “spirits” at the annual Kentucky Bourbon Festival, a celebration of the state’s bourbon making heritage held September 18-22. Learn to pair bourbon with regional cuisine, have a master distiller autograph a special bottle, or sip your favorite bourbon while listening to a fast-pickin’ bluegrass band. With more than 20 events, you’re sure to find bourbon bliss.
Distillery tours are part of the fun, but if you can’t make it to the festival, no worries. Most tours are available year-round. Big names like Maker’s Mark and Jim Beam, the granddaddies of the bourbon industry, have been on the circuit for ages, but there’s a new kid on the block - Lux Row Distillers.
On the tour, bourbon enthusiasts get a crash course in bourbon production. The first lesson is that all bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon. Bourbon is American-made whiskey that is distilled from a mash (a mixture of grains) that is at least 51 percent corn and aged in charred new oak barrels for a minimum of two years.
The mash bubbles away in swimming pool-size vats, No, it’s not boiling. Yeast causes the bubbles during the fermentation process. Visitors learn all about Kentucky’s limestone water, bourbon’s not-so-secret ingredient, and why the state’s climate is ideal for aging bourbon. Finally, the best part – sampling the finished product.
Shot glasses of Rebel Yell, Ezra Brooks, and David Nicholson Reserve are lined up next to chocolates meant to enhance the flavor profile of each whiskey. Tour guide Annabelle Beam advises bourbon novices to use the experience to determine if they prefer wheat or rye bourbon.
“With wheat, it’s usually softer and sweeter. It picks up on the side of your tongue and is more mellow,” Beam explains. “With rye, it has more spice to it, kind of a peppery note.”
Whatever your bourbon of choice, you’ll find rivers of it in Bardstown. Most visitors return home not only with a collection of souvenir bourbon glasses and a horse-emblazoned sweatshirt or two, but with a deeper appreciation for the unique culture and character of this corner of the commonwealth.
Tracey Teo is a writer living in Evansville, Indiana.
When You Go to Lexington
Where to Stay
The Kentucky Castle – This luxury hotel is nestled among Lexington’s horse farms. 230 Pisgah Pike, Versailles, KY, (859) 256-0322, www.thekentuckycastle.com
Backstretch Tour
Keeneland – 4201 Versailles Road, Lexington, KY, (859) 254-3412, www.keeneland.com
Tourist Information
Lexington Visitors Center – 215 W. Main St., Suite 75, Lexington, KY, (800) 845-3959, www.visitlex.com
When You Go to Bardstown
Where to Stay
The Jailer’s Inn – Today it’s a charming B&B, but it was a jail for almost 200 years. 111 W. Stephen Foster Ave., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-5551, www.jailersinn.com
Where to Eat
Bottle & Bond Kitchen and Bar – Located inside the Bardstown Bourbon Company. 1500 Parkway Dr., Bardstown, KY, (502) 252-6331, www.bottleandbond.com
Tourist Information
For info on the Kentucky Bourbon Festival, visit www.kybourbonfestival.com
Visit Bardstown – 1 Court Square, Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-4877, www.visitbardstown.com
